If circles at 1.4 show a distinctive edge and those at 1.0 don't, then this should measure the "sensor apodization". So, I guess, the money would be well spent.Ī test could be done to compare the shape of bokeh circles of the EF50 1.0 at 1.0 and 1.4. On the other hand, IF the lens transmission in the outermost regons was only gradually reduced, this would make all and every very high aperture lens an apodization lens, making its bokeh only much smoother. In this lesson, well make some baseline color corrections to our image. In this test it would not be necessary to block the contacts, as the camera could forge ISO, but cannot forge bokeh. So an alternative test for the DxO-claimed effect could be to compare the diameter of bokeh circles of the EF50 1.0 at 1.0 and at 1.4. So, if this was true, very high aperture lenses should not provide better bokeh than more narrow lenses. from the parts of the lens between 1.4 and 1.0) then the bokeh should not be different either. IF the sensor really didn't at all register light incident at high angles (coming form the outermost part of the lens, i.e. I admit the focus on the 1.4 image is pretty bad, but for the purposes of this, I wasn't too concerned with perfect focus. The only modifications I made to them were to convert them both to sRGB and resize them down to 3000px. Photo 5540 is with the 50mm 1.0 lens, 5541 is with the 50mm 1.4. But for me, right now, just knowing that having a 1.0 aperture does actually make a difference on a digital camera is enough.
I guess if I really wanted to I could get into a big technical analysis of whether or not the 1.0 lens gave exactly a 1 stop increase in brightness or not. The result? the 50mm 1.0 was noticeably brighter than the 50mm 1.4. This gave me two photos, one taken with a 1.4 lens wide open, and another with a 1.0 lens wide open, both at the same camera settings, and both taken so that the camera had no way of knowing what lens it was taking the photo with.
I then did the same thing with a Canon 50mm 1.0 lens.
RAWTHERAPEE LENS CORRECTION MANUAL
I set the camera up on a tripod, attached a Canon 50mm 1.4 lens to the camera, obtained focus, and then removed the lens, stuck a piece of tape over the electrical contacts on the lens so that the camera could not discern what kind of lens was attached to it, and I took a photo in manual mode at 1/50 of a second and ISO 1000. I really didn't want to believe that dropping serious money on a 50mm f1.0 was completely pointless, so I decided to do a sort of "blind" test with my 5D Mark III. You can read the article here, but the basic gist is that digital sensors are somewhat incapable of registering light from very wide aperture lenses, so cameras secretly bump up the ISO at wide apertures in order to compensate for this. I was kind of put off when I read the DxOMark article referencing how very fast lenses on digital cameras are a waste due to the sensor's limited ability to gather light from a lens with a very wide aperture.
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